Motorcycle Training

Getting a license

See Motorcycle Licensing Explained.

To comply with European legislation a new motorcycle test was introduced in September 2008, with the aim of improving the standard of road safety for motorcycle and moped riders.

In order to take your first steps into motorcycling, you will need to get yourself a provisional driving license and complete C.B.T. (Compulsory Basic Training) before you can legally ride on the road. When you've completed CBT you'll be given a DL196. You must produce this before you can take the practical motorcycle test.

ALL learner motorcyclists must complete C.B.T. before riding on the road unless they:

• - Passed the full moped test after 1st December 1990.
• - Already hold a valid Certificate of Completion (DL196) obtained during a previous entitlement.
• - Only plan to ride a moped and passed a car license test before 1st February 2001.

Only Approved Training Bodies (A.T.B.) can provide C.B.T. courses. These A.T.B.'s all have instructors who have passed the Driving Standards Agency (D.S.A.) course as well as sites checked and approved by the D.S.A. for off-road training.

Here are some we recommend:

• Beacon Rider Training in Long Eaton, Notts. - MAP
• Hinckley Rider Training Scheme in Hinckley, Leics. - MAP
• Abbacorn School of Motorcycling in Bilborough, Notts. - MAP

The C.B.T. Course

The C.B.T. course covers five elements:

• 1. Introduction - Eyesight check and Briefing
• 2. Operation - Controls and handling of the motorcycle
• 3. Off-road - Learning to ride a motorcycle
• 4. Briefing - Road theory
• 5. On-road - Practical riding on public highways

1. Introduction

Eyesight Check

Before the CBT course can start you will be given an eyesight test. Your trainer will ask you to read the number plate on a parked vehicle. You may use contact lenses or spectacles if you normally wear them.

The distance requirement for the eyesight test is:

• 20 metres for vehicles displaying the new-style number plate
• 20.5 metres for vehicles displaying old-style number plates

If you can't read the first number plate correctly, you'll be asked to read a second number plate.

If you can't read the second number plate correctly, you'll be allowed to walk forward until you are just over the appropriate distance away. If you still can't read the second number plate correctly, the trainer will measure the distance to a third number plate.

The third number plate will be at the measured distance - 20 or 20.5 metres - which will depend upon whether it is a new or old style plate. New-style number plates are easily identifiable starting with two letters followed by two numbers, for example AB51 ABC. If you are unable to read the third number plate, then you will not be able to continue the course. If you have a driving licence and develop a sight problem you must notify Driver and Vehicle Licensing Agency (DVLA). If you are in any doubt at all that loss of sight is affecting your ability to drive safely, please get advice from your doctor or eye specialist.

Legal Prerequisites

Your trainer will check that you have a valid licence and a roadworthy bike with road tax and MOT (if it is over 3 years old). Most training centres have their own bikes (with insurance) available for you to hire - this is the preferable option for most people as it would be illegal for an unqualified rider to ride their own bike to the training centre on public roads.

If you are using your own bike you must ensure you have valid insurance and display L-plates on the front and rear of the bike. L-Plates must not be cut-down and must be mounted vertically or near vertical.

Clothing and Equipment

You must have a helmet which meets BSI 6658 and ECE 22-05 standards - qualifying helmets will have a sticker indicating this - it must fit and it must have a BSI approved visor (see our helmets section for information about helmets and visors). Most training centres will readily rent or lend you a legal helmet.

Your trainer will explain the purpose and merits of different types of protective clothing.

Though not a legal requirement, you should consider a decent pair of gloves as essential.

The following items are also strongly recommended:

• Sturdy Jacket - ideally a proper motorcycle jacket
• Sturdy Trousers - again, ideally proper motorcycle trousers
• A good pair of sturdy, over the ankle boots - proper motorcycle boots are probably overkill for most learners
• Waterproofs - if it's wet!

2. Operation

In this section, you will learn about handling your motorcycle and the location and correct operation of the various controls.

1. Left Handlebar Controls

Clutch Lever

Pulling in this lever operates the clutch, disconnecting the engine drive from the rear wheel. Releasing the lever when a forward gear is selected will engage power to the rear wheel, causing the bike to move forwards

The clutch is used to select and change gears, to select neutral gear and to carry out slow-speed manoeuvres.

Motorcycles with automatic and semi-automatic transmission have no clutch lever and usually have a lever for the operation of the rear brake instead.

Choke

The choke changes the mixture of air and fuel in the engine to help start when the engine is cold. This control is often on the left-handlebar but sometimes is mounted on the side of the engine itself.

Bikes with fuel-injection systems do not have a choke control.

Indicator Switch

This switch controls the orange indicator lights on the front and rear of the motorcycle. It generally has two positions - left or right! Most indicator switches have a centre button that is used to cancel the indicator, though some have to be manually moved back to the centre position.

Headlamp Dip Switch

This thumb-operated switch is used to switch the motorcycle's main headlamp between full and dipped beam. When full-beam is selected, a blue warning light is illuminated on the dash.

Headlamp Flasher Switch

This switch flashes the headlamp. You would use this to flash your headlamp in a situation where your horn might not be heard.

Horn

Operates the horn. Use this to warn other road users if you think they may not have seen you.

You should not sound your horn:

• In built-up areas between 11.30pm and 7am
• When your motorcycle is stationary, unless a moving vehicle poses a danger

2. Right Handlebar Controls

Front Brake Lever

Pulling this lever towards you operates the front brake.

Throttle

Operates the throttle. Twisting the throttle towards you increases the engine revs, causing the motorcycle to gain speed. It will spring back to the closed position when released causing the engine to run at idle speed.

Cut-out or 'Kill' switch

This switch is used in an emergency to stop the engine. It shuts off all electrical circuits, reducing fire risk in the event of an accident.

Electric Start button

Most modern motorcycles are fitted with an electric starter. To use it:

• - Make sure that the cut-out switch is in the run position (the cut-out switch is usually a rocker-style switch on the right handlebar).
• - Switch on the ignition
• - Select neutral - check that the neutral light is on
• - Press the starter button

Headlamp Switch

Usually mounted on the right handlebar, though occasionally on some models, on the left. This switch operates the headlamp and usually has three positions: off, parking lights on and headlights on. You must use dipped headlights at night or in poor visibility when you need to see ahead or if you want others to see you.

3. Foot Controls

Almost all motorcycles with manual transmission have their controls in similar positions. Bikes with automatic or semi-automatic transmission may be different - lacking manual gear controls and/or a clutch. Bikes with fully-automatic transmission (i.e. most scooters and mopeds) usually do not have any foot-operated controls at all.

Gear Lever

Gears help you to match engine power to road speed. You will use first gear to move off from standstill and switch to higher gears as you gain speed.

The gear selector is normally on the left side of the motorcycle, in front of the footrest.

The neutral position is when no gear is engaged. Most motorcycles illuminate a green light on the dash when the gears are in neutral.

Gears are selected by lifting or pushing down the gear lever with your foot. Most manual motorcycles have 5 or 6 forward gears. Motorcycles do not usually have a reverse gear.

Gears are selected sequentially. On most bikes, first gear is selected by pushing the lever down and then higher gears are selected by pulling the lever upwards. For novices, this often takes some getting used to but once you get the hang of it, it becomes second nature! Many learner-class bikes now have a digital indicator on the dash which displays the currently selected gear.

Rear Brake Pedal

The rear brake control is usually a pedal located on the right side of the motorcycle, in front of the footrest. On most automatic motorcycles, the rear brake is operated instead by a lever on the left handlebar.

Kick-start

Usually located on the right side of the motorcycle, behind the footrest. Most modern bikes have electric start and don't always have a kick-start lever. Kick-start can be useful if your bike gets a flat battery.

• - Make sure that the cut-out switch is in the run position (the cut-out switch is usually a rocker-style switch on the right handlebar).
• - Switch on the ignition
• - Select neutral - check that the neutral light is on
• - Fold out the kick-start lever
• - Kick the lever downwards sharply. Repeat until the engine starts

The Instrument Panel / "Dash"

Speedometer

Shows the speed at which the vehicle is travelling in miles per hour and kilometres per hour.

Odometer

Usually situated on the speedometer - a digital readout that shows the total distance travelled by the motorcycle since manufacture. Odometers are designed to be tamper-proof and it is a criminal offence to modify one for the purpose of deceiving a potential purchaser of a vehicle. The display is usually in miles but on some motorcycles it could be in km - this is normal and perfectly legal for UK road use.

Below the odometer, there is usually another similar display; this is the Trip Meter. It works in the same way but can be reset by the rider.

Rev Counter

On motorcycles that have a rev-counter, it displays the speed of the engine in revolutions per minute.

Ignition Switch

Operated by the ignition key. Usually has three positions - off, on and park/lock.

Warning and Information Lights

• Ignition Light - illuminates when the ignition switch is turned on. It should go out when the engine is running.
• Neutral Light - illuminates to indicate the motorcycle is in neutral gear. Green in colour.
• Indicator Light - illuminates with the indicator lights. To help you to remember to cancel your indicators!
• High-beam Light - illuminates when your headlamp is set to high-beam. Blue in colour.
• Oil Pressure Light - illuminates to warn of low oil pressure. If it comes on while the engine is running it may indicate a serious problem with the engine. Stop the engine at the first safe opportunity. Red in colour.

Temperature Gauge

On motorcycles with liquid-cooled engines, this shows the temperature of the coolant and warns if the engine overheats.